Tuesday 17th September 2024
Despite a confusing entry into the railway station next
morning, we caught the 300 kmh (well, most of the way) train to Madrid. The
only frustration being the lack of wifi so we had to talk to each other and
watch the scenery. Flashy’s ankle is still playing up so we caught a taxi from
the station to our accommodation, which was a blessing on two fronts. It took
us along the beautiful main boulevard, past the museums and new building
before arriving in the old town. We are in a residential neighbourhood with
many near by bars and restaurants in a newly renovated two bedroom apartment.
After a quick visit to the small supermarket three doors down, we chilled the
Cava and awaited the arrival of Alan and Cherete Harton.
Once they arrived and settled in, we went for a neighbourhood
stroll, indulging, as you do, tapas and more of those gigantic gin and
tonics.
Wednesday 18th September 2024
Moving slowly and only having a cup of tea this morning as we
depart at 10.30 am for a 3.5 hour walking tour, which starts off with churros
and hot chocolate!
And it did not disappoint. Our tour guide took us (8 in the
group) to places owned by local families. Mainly very small, local places. The churros, called porras here, came
with a coffee cup of melted chocolate into which the fried dough was dipped.
Very healthy. Our walk took us through Centro towards Plaza Mayor and took 3.5
hours.
The second stop was Moega, a tiny Galician bakery with two
ovens and enough customer space for three people. We ate warm pastry buns
stuffed with chorizo, standing on the footpath. That was breakfast.
The next stop was the local market – Mercado Anton. Been here for 100 years and only services the local neighbourhood. They’d be lucky to see any tourists here at all. We sampled seven different types of olives accompanied by a spicy red vermouth and to finish, some delicious white anchovies on crisps.
Then, some extra virgin olive oil and bread and on to the ham
and cheese stall for three types of Jamon. Serano, of course – the staple ham
of Spain, then the expensive Iberian black pig, acorn fed Iberian Jamon and
lastly some smoked beef. All delicious and the butcher clapped when we managed
to finish the sample tray! On the way out we shopped for some fruit and cheese
at a tiny market stall.
Time now for some wine and cheese. The little shop called
Gonzales, was once a hotbed of anti fascist activity against Franco, with the
current owner’s grandfather being jailed for anti-government activities in the
60’s. He and his mates would meet out the back, which is where we were seated
and treated to a nice Alberino and a Tempranillo to go with four cheeses, the
last a strong blue made from cow, sheep and goat’s milk blend.
Lunch was announced as the next stop and we skirted Plaza
Mayor to arrive at Campana, a shop selling only fried calamari rolls. The line
up was 60 deep, stretching out along the footpath.
Surprisingly, we were
a bit full by now. But we ploughed on, across the Plaza to a tiny
pastry shop, El Riojano, set up by Queen Isabella for her pastry chef. Here we
had the sweetest thing in Spain, allegedly. Marzipan cake. It was nice but not
overly sweet. Thus ended our Ultimate Spanish Gourmet Walking Food tour.
Flashy, unable to walk on his dodgy Achilles, caught a taxi home, while the others walked for miles around the town. We dined at home on grilled figs with jamon and goat’s cheese, some malt bread from Moega Bakery and the left over tortilla from the previous night with a salad.
There is no olive oil or vinegar in the apartment
and since we’re not here for long, we
haven’t bought any. So, Flashy squeezed a couple of tomatoes, added some lemon juice and a touch of what he thought
was sugar. On closer inspection of the very large packet, is said “sal.” The
salad was a touch salty!
On request from Tas, some food photos.
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