Saturday 30 March 2024 – Easter Saturday

An early start today as we head off to Doolin to catch the ferry to the Aran Islands. Everything working well; car - no problems; weather cold. No, very cold. The ferry departs on time and is very comfortable below decks. There are three islands in the Aran group. Little, middle and big island, named respectively Heer, Maan and More. We get off at the big island where there are four of pubs and some shops.

There are a few ways of seeing the island. It’s 15 kms long, so Flashy did not suggest we walk it. The horse and cart option looked good but probably a bit cold. So, we decided on Pat Hernon’s Celtic Tours. A nice heated 19-seater with full commentary in a nice Irish accent to be sure. Around the top of the Island in three hours for €25 ea.

The first stop is for coffee and a slice of fudge by the open fire in a little cafe. There was a group of Canadian women and a family from somewhere, standing around in the café, scratching their heads, so Flashy barged up to the Irish lass behind the counter and ordered, while Lady P snaffled the table. Do not get between Lady P and her morning coffee.

A nice start to the tour and as we had an hour at the location, we headed for the tourist information centre to pay two seniors’ tickets to walk the Dun Aonghasa – an ancient stone fort. It’s bloody up hill for miles! Never mind, in howling wind, freezing temperatures and slippery rocks Flashy manages to reach the top. Great, you can see the sea from 300 feet up and then you have to go down again.

The rest of the tour was informative and interesting as we drove through little villages and discovered that there are three churches on this island. Pat (we’re on first names now with the driver), tells us that the local priest does Mass in each church on Sunday then goes to the other two islands and does Mass there as well. “Sure, he’s a very busy man, indeed he is,” says Pat.

We have two hours at the end of the tour before the ferry back to Doolin. What to do? Refuge is taken in the pub and Flashy orders a pint of Guinness to ward off hypothermia.

Have you heard of the recent practice of splitting the “G”? Splitting the G essentially refers to the act of taking your first, likely large, sip of Guinness. The goal is to sip enough to allow the beer to then settle right between the “G” in the word Guinness, written on the glass. This challenge is harder than it might sound, as you must sip the perfect amount of beer to split the G correctly. A young person’s drinking game, to be sure. Flashy nails it perfectly first time!

The burger and Beef Stroganoff late lunch wasn’t too bad either. Then we walked up another hill to the top pub and had a Jamesons and a little sit down. Then back to the ferry for the 4.14 pm back to Doolin. The days are getting longer, and the Atlantic was glistening in the western sun but a bit rough.

At Doolin, the passengers depart. But not us. Lady P has a special deal that now takes us out to see the cliffs of Mohr from the sea – not fighting with the hoi polloi on the top of the cliffs looking at the bloody sea! What an amazing trip, looking up at the 700 feet limestone cliffs, with the Atlantic under the bow and the western sun shining on the cliff face. We did see some ants on the top of the cliff and assumed they were the silly tourist not in the know, indeed, no doubt, to be sure.

Heading home and in need of a wee stop, we went into McDermott’s Pub, on the outskirts of Doolin. Lovely three piece girl band in the bar and we had a couple of gin and tonics. Now an Irish girl band is not like the Spice Girls. It’s three Irish beauties playing Trad music on fiddle, bodhran and guitar – or similar. It was hard to leave as the pub filled to bursting and the girls played on. But fatigue set in and we reluctantly headed home.

See, he can walk up a hill

Yes, the Irish sky is blue

Cliffs of Mohr

Chilly still

More of the cliffs of Mohr

Flashy splits the "G"