Saturday 10 February 2024

An early walk to the station for the train to Flam. The train departed silently exactly on time. It’s full of Australians and they sound like farmers  from Woomera, but not so much in our carriage. Their tour guide irritates Flashy from the start and he works out ways of tipping his backpack out of the train.

We finish the war chest of food, have a beer and gin in the Kafe Car and then just out of Myrdal, at Fisa, we stop because another train in front of us has derailed. We have to wait here until the track is cleared.

Finally make Flam at the bottom of the valley and head of the fjord. And the scenery is stunning with massive snow covered mountains and the nearly freezing fjord. Photos turn out black and white as the glacier carved its way through basalt.

Winter has stripped all the leaves from the stunted trees and the snow is everywhere. Flashy explains the lateral morains formed through metamorphosed basaltic lavas is the exposed black rocks on which the white snow sits, hence the black and white vista. I think this goes mostly unnoticed by the unimpressed.

At the pub, connected conveniently at the rear of our hotel, we notice the viking design or perhaps faux viking but it has a fire pit which is alight and two spare seats which we snaffle, ignoring the ‘please wait here to be seated’ sign.

Over a couple  of beers and GnT’s, we meet the two people sitting next to us, Thomas and Fabienne and yes they actually said “we are Swiss.’ They turn out to be a wonderful couple who are basically travelling the same route and bus/train we are tomorrow. We adjourn to the dining room for a pretty good pub dinner and a bottle of Italian red. Then so overwhelmed with our snappy repartee, or perhaps the wine, Thomas insists on paying. So, we return the favour with cocktails down by the fire before heading to our rooms.

The sticking out bits are the house's chimneys. The rest is under snow. A holiday home and I bet the fermented reindeer steaks will be nice and cold
Hi quality train food
Faux viking fire pit. He might be a good barman but the waiter can't light a fire for love nor money. Local IPA is good.

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